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Thursday, April 29, 2010

Penang Seafood Restaurant, Kuching

Now *this* is more like it!

The previous night's meal at Rock Road Seafood Restaurant was unfortunately underwhelming.  But at that meal, our good friend Mike started planning to introduce us to another restaurant the following night.  He said that he'd swing by before they closed and make the reservation.

So the following evening, after we took our friend Elizabeth on a short jaunt to Satok Market, we arrived at Penang Seafood.

Penang Seafood, Kuching

Penang Seafood Restaurant Kuching

Is it Any Good?

I remember driving past this restaurant sometime early after our move to Kuching.  I remarked to Annie that, "It can't be any good, if it has to proclaim that it's from Penang." The sentiment being, if any restaurant has to say that its food is from someplace else, it inevitably is NOT as good as that someplace else.

Yet, here we were, at a place chosen by Mike who eats out a lot here in Kuching (and elsewhere). I trust his opinion on such matters. And checking his blog, you'll see that he has visited this place many, many times. So maybe my first inclination about this place was wrong.


Soup's On


After settling our drinks, the dishes started coming out of the kitchen. First up was this pork bone and red bean soup. After the bowls were ladled out and distributed, I took a sip: Delicious!  Very rich, clear flavors.



Pork Bone and Red Bean Soup

pork and bean soup at penang seafood restaurant

Next came the fried long beans with minced pork. A dish like this can be oily or overdone but the beans still had some crunch to them and the minced pork was alluring.


Fried Long Beans with Minced Pork

fried green beans at penang seafood restaurant

Now *this* dish was out-of-this world yums.  It's a patty made with ground pork and dried salted fish.  I thought it was too salty but it was so addictive, I couldn't stop eating it!  Even now, my mouth is watering.


Fried Ground Pork and Salted Fish Patty

pan fried ground pork mixed with salted fish at penang seafood restaurant

Here is one of my favorite dishes to eat: Chinese Pickled Pig's Feet. Typically eaten by new moms, this dish of pig trotters braised in Chinese black vinegar beguiles me with sweet, salty, savory and sour notes.  Best thing about it is how tender the pork is. What's his secret, I wonder.


Pickled Pig's Feet

pickled pig's feet at penang seafood restaurant

The only dish that didn't wow us was the midin. We had it belacan and salad style at Rock Road the previous night. Mike's wife ordered it belacan-style again, but I guess the kitchen had a mix-up and it came out sauteed with Chinese red wine.  The midin came out limp and unappealing.


Midin in Red Wine

midin in red wine at penang seafood restaurant

Contrasting the previous night's Butter Prawns, we were served these assam prawns. The large shrimp were fried and coated in a sticky, tamarind-based sauce. Very nice, and tasty!


Assam Prawns

marmite prawns at penang seafood restaurant

The last dish that came out was the piece de resistance, an assam curry fishhead. And it wasn't just any old fishhead. Mike had brought it back from his recent trip to Sibu, and placed it in the care of the chef that morning.  These were very clearly Penang Nyonya flavors.  Spot-on! Great depth of flavor, and the fish itself was tremendously good.


Assam Curry Fishhead

assam fish head at penang seafood restaurant


The Damage

As you can see, we devoured everything on the table, save for the red wine midin.  That assam curry was good to the last drop!

empty dishes at penang seafood restaurant


Is it Any Good?

I was wrong. It *is* good. And good to know that we can get Penang food right here in Kuching. They even have assam laksa and char koay teow on Saturday mornings!  Definitely worth going back.

Thanks for the introduction, Mike!

Penang Seafood
Jalan Tan Sri Ong Kee Hui, near the intersection with Jalan Tabuan
Kuching

Aloha, Nate

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Monday, April 26, 2010

Rock Road Seafood, Kuching

We dine out at the “best seafood restaurant in Kuching”.

Rock Road Seafood Kuching

We don’t eat out a lot at the House of Annie. Even though Annie and I are both working now, we still manage to eat in most nights of the week. Stark contrast to a lot of double-income Malaysian households who tend to get their meals at local restaurants and hawker centers.

But every so often, a special occasion warrants a special dinner. Just recently, Annie’s good friend Elizabeth (responsible for our Easy Green Tea-ramisu, Hong Siew Braised Tofu, and Khau Yoke recipes) came to Kuching to visit. Kuching being a port city known for its seafood, we decided to take her to Rock Road Seafood Restaurant, widely touted as the best seafood restaurant in Kuching. And since we wanted to sample more dishes than our little troupe could hope to eat alone, we invited our good friend Mike and his family to come join us.

Fresh is Best

When you walk into the restaurant, you are greeted by large fishtanks on one wall, filled with live prawns and fish. In the middle is an island showcasing bins of fresh fruits and vegetables to be used by the kitchen. There’s also a bin holding dozens of live crabs:

live crabs at Rock Road Seafood

Along the other wall are more fishes and shellfish on ice. You select your seafood, choose what style of dish you want the kitchen to cook it, and place your order with the waiters there before heading upstairs to the elegant dining room.

Fish choices at Rock Road Seafood

Since we had arranged for an early reservation, there weren’t that many people in the restaurant when we were seated. The food started coming out of the kitchen in quick order. First up was a big platter of fried noodles with lots of veggies, chicken and sauce. Pretty standard fare.

noodle dish rock road seafood

Since this was Elizabeth’s first time in Sarawak, we decided to order a uniquely Sarawakian vegetable dish: midin (fiddlehead fern) cooked with belacan (shrimp paste). The sweet, crunchy vegetable was accented by the salty belacan and spicy chile slices.

belacan midin rock road seafood

We also ordered a second midin dish, this time a cool salad which was served with shredded red cabbage, carrots, and onions. The dressing was a sticky, sweet sauce that was a little too sweet for me. Of the two midin dishes, we liked the belacan one better.

midin salad rock road seafood

Next up was this yam (taro) nest with chicken, cashews, veggies and dried red chiles. The nest is shaped from mashed cooked taro, then deep fried. In most other restaurants, the nest would be light and crispy. Here, though, the nest was dense and chewy. Not very well executed.

yam nest rock road seafood

One of my favorite dishes is butter prawns. Deep fried prawns are combined with egg yolk “floss” and curry leaves which have been fried in butter. Talk about over the top! That’s why I love it so much (especially the fried curry leaves). If the prawns are fried correctly, you can eat the whole thing, shells and all.  These prawns were underdone.

butter prawns rock road seafood

By now the restaurant had filled up, and dishes were coming out much slower. The next dish was this steamed grouper with soy sauce. Annie had wanted to order a live fish to be steamed, but Eliz was afraid it was going to be too expensive. So she opted to go with this previously frozen fish instead. The difference between using a fresh fish and a not-fresh one was like night and day. There was no sweetness, no lightness in the flesh. Kinda disappointing.

steamed grouper rock road seafood

The highlight dish of the evening was this satay crab dish, a signature dish for the restaurant. Normally this dish is served with prawns but Mike said to try something different. These crabs were swimming in a delicious brown sauce that was so complex in flavor. The crabs almost played second fiddle to the sauce.

The best part about this dish was that they served it with fried man tou (steamed buns). You tear off a piece of the man tou, swirl it around in the sauce, and pop it in your mouth. Heaven. I would have been happy eating this dish first. Too bad it was the last to come to the table, after we had all eaten our fill.

satay crabs rock road seafood

The Damage

Actually, the total bill for 6 adults and 2 kids was not bad, considering the high prices that this restaurant is known for. All 7 dishes plus drinks came up to less than $100 US! Amazing.

Still, I don’t think we’ll be coming back. Besides the last dish of crabs in satay sauce, we weren’t wowed by anything else. You can find these dishes elsewhere, for better price, and perhaps even prepared with more skill. Best seafood restaurant in Kuching? Not in my opinion.

Aloha, Nate

Edit: Here's Mike's take on the dinner: http://kongkay1.blogspot.com/2010/04/with-annie-co-rock-road-seafood-jalan.html

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Thursday, March 04, 2010

Chinese New Year in Penang

Ever since Annie went to the United States to study 13 years ago, she hasn’t been back home for Chinese New Year. Sure, we’ve come back to Malaysia several times to visit, but never during this season which is the most important holiday celebrated by her family. So when we moved to East Malaysia and settled in Sarawak, one of the first things we did was book tickets to KL so we could spend this festive time reuniting with her family in KL and Penang.

Annie’s extended family on her father’s side are from Penang. When I say “extended family”, I mean EXTENDED. Her dad has many brothers and sisters, plus all the other cousins and relatives by marriage. It was said that you couldn’t throw a stone in Penang without hitting a relative. I was looking forward to the excitement of the family reunion.

And, of course, I was looking forward to the food.

Crossing Over the Bridge to Georgetown, Penang

penang bridge

It was a 4 hour-long drive up from KL. We had stopped at a rest stop along the way for some mediocre hawker fare. By the time we got to Annie's uncle's house (where we would be staying the next few days), we were exhausted.

But we had barely a chance to unload our car, wash up and settle down before Uncle announced, "come, you want to go eat?"

Well, how could we refuse? ;-d

Since it was Chinese New Year, most of the hawker stalls that Penang is famous for were closed. All the proprietors had gone home to prepare their own family feasts and functions. Uncle took us to Cafe Bali Bali, a kopitiam (coffeeshop) nearby that he frequents.

He ordered a Hokkien Prawn Mee (a soup noodle dish, completely different from the KL-style Hokkien Char Mee) for me, plus a Char Kway Teow to share and a couple of Assam Laksa to ta pau (take home). The prawn mee was okay only; the broth did not pack a good enough porky-shrimpy flavor punch for me.

Hokkien Prawn Mee

hokkien prawn mee

That night, we went out again to meet up with another Uncle and his family for dinner. We ended up at another kopitiam across the road from this Uncle’s house. I wound up getting a Klang-style bak kut teh (literally “pork bone tea”) which was decent. After I finished that, Auntie asked if I was interested in some Or Chien (oyster omelet).

Fresh oysters, wok-fried with beaten eggs and tapioca starch, then served with some chili sauce on the side? “Sure!”

Or Chien (Hokkien Oyster Omelet)

or chien

The next day was actually the eve of Chinese New Year. Almost all the immediate relatives in Penang would be here to have the first reunion dinner. Annie’s Mum and Aunty were busy all day in the kitchen, cooking.

One by one, dishes appeared on serving platters: a chicken dish, a prawn dish, a pork dish, a vegetarian dish…it was going to be quite a feast! Towards the end of the afternoon, Uncle went out to his favorite Nasi Kandar restaurant and came back with a big pot of Indian fish curry.

We were among the first to eat, before the crowd arrived. I have to say, this fish curry was really good! The sweetness of the onions, the savoriness of the curry, and the spiciness of the chili were combined into a wonderful balance of flavors.

Fish Curry

fish curry

The times, they are a changin’.

Perhaps it’s because the economy is better, or airfares are cheaper. Or it could be that hanging around family is not as fun as it used to be when everyone was younger. In any case, there weren’t as many relatives at the reunion dinner this year, compared to previous times we’ve been back to Penang. A few of the families were actually traveling overseas for the holiday instead of gathering at home.

Those that did come, though, got to participate in a Chinese New Year “tradition” that was invented here in Malaya back in the 60’s. “Yee Sang” (or “Yusheng” depending on your dialect) literally means “raw fish” but sounds like the words for “increasing abundance”. It is made with strips of several different kinds of vegetables, plus crispy noodles, raw fish, ground peanuts, and a highly sweet, sticky sauce.

Yee Sang Platter

yee sang platter pre-toss

The idea is to have everyone grab a pair of chopsticks, gather ‘round the platter, and toss the whole mixture together in unison.

Tossing the Yee Sang

lou yee sang

At the same time, they call out blessings and good wishes for the new year. Supposedly, the higher the toss, the greater the blessing. Everyone gets in on the fun and starts calling out things like, “good health” or “win the lottery” (for the older folks) and “find a boyfriend” or “get married next year” (for the single folks).

Tossing the Yee Sang

tossing the yee sang

As with large families, sometimes things can get messy. Like a just-mixed platter of yee sang.

Yee Sang - All Mixed Up

tossed yee sang platter

But without all the mixing around, you’d never get a full taste of the yee sang in your bowl. The sour elements interact with the sweet, while the mushy elements interact with the crunchy. People might have their favorite ingredient but it wouldn’t be yee sang if you didn’t have the other ingredients to create a harmonious balance in your bowl.

Bowl of Yee Sang

bowl of yee sang

The next day, the family all gathered together again for the traditional First Day vegetarian meal. Even then, things weren’t so harmonious. We had to discipline a tantrum-throwing Esther, who wouldn’t stop crying for some absurd reason (crying is a big no-no on the First Day).

Eventually, we all settled down and tucked in to the meal. It was a very tasty, Chinese vegetarian meal full of mock meats and tofu cooked in a variety of ways.

Afterward, we all gathered in the hall to take a family picture.

Neoh Family Picture

Neoh family pictureAunties, Uncles, cousins and grandkids, all tossed together and mixed up like a platter of yee sang. It may not be pretty, but it’s family.

Aloha, Nate

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Saturday, December 19, 2009

Fruits of Serian

We’ve been in Kuching, Sarawak for about 4 months now, but aside from a trip to the Damai Beach in North Kuching, we've not gone outside of the South Kuching metro area at all. Today was a public holiday in Malaysia (Awal Muharram – the Islamic New Year) so we decided to get out of town and take a drive to Serian, visit the market there, and see what we could see.
Serian Town is less than 60 km (about an hour’s leisurely drive) from Kuching. You drive south, away from the coast and towards the highlands and the Malaysia-Indonesia border. It’s an easy drive with lots of open space and open sky to encourage your mind to wander. Next thing you know, you see a roundabout up ahead with a big, durian-shaped monument welcoming you to Serian. (Apparently, Serian has a reputation for the best durian in Sarawak.)

Durian Monument at Roundabout Outside Serian

Welcome to Serian Town

Going to Town

The Serian Market is in the middle of town, next to the bus depot. There are two buildings: one where you can get normal vegetables, chicken, fish and pork, and the other where you can find all sorts of native produce and products. We headed for the native section, because we were interested in the different kinds of local fruits that were available. Some of these fruit we didn’t even see at the Satok Market in Kuching (though the fruit may not have been in season then).

Buah Tampoi

buah tampoi
Buah tampoi is a golf ball-sized fruit with a hard, reddish outer covering. Cracking the fruit open, you will find many sections of sweet, yellow flesh surrounding a smooth seed. We’ll take a closer look at this fruit in another post.

Many Varieties of Banana

Pisang Tanduk, Pisang Emas assorted banana varieties
I am amazed by the huge array of bananas we can find here in Sarawak. From the massive pisang tanduk (horn banana) to the diminutive pisang emas (golden banana) and everything in between. Each banana variety has its own nuance of flavor. Chiquita bananas are so boring compared to these.

Buah Merenti

Buah Merenti
These buah merenti are hard little berries, slightly larger than peppercorns. Can anyone share what they taste like or how they’re used?

Whole Cloves

cloves
We found a spice vendor who was selling these whole cloves and other whole spices. Everything we need to make our own Chinese five spice powder, and then some. The vendor was selling all kinds of ground spices as well.

Bins of Colorful Ground Spices

spice powders

Curious

Here are a couple more strange looking fruit that piqued our curiosity.

Belimbing Gunung

Belimbing Gunung

Snakeskin Fruit?

snakeskin fruit
This one kinda looks like an immature Snakeskin Fruit. The fruit are actually very tightly packed together, attached to a central stem.

Thai Pea Eggplant

Thai Pea Eggplants
Annie calls this fruit a Thai Pea Eggplant. These fruit are about the size of a large green pea. We’ve been enjoying these eggplants as part of a native Bidayuh dish using tapioca leaves called pucuk ubi that one of our friends makes. Hopefully she’ll teach us how to make this dish ourselves so we can share it with you in another post!

Buah Dabai - “Sibu Olive”

Buah Dabai Sibu Olive
Though this fruit isn’t technically an olive, it does bear a striking resemblance both in appearance and taste. Last month, we took a visiting food blogger (Nicholas Gilman of Good Food in Mexico City) to the Satok Market. We stayed at the food courts there that evening, where we all tried out a dish of fried rice made with the salted and dried dabai fruit. It was delicious! Hopefully we’ll have a chance to make it and share it in – you guessed it – another post.

Pineapples

Pineapples
Here are some lovely pineapples for sale. Just 3 Ringgit each for the good ones and only 2 Ringgit for the ripe ones!

Sardines and Baby Pomfrets

sardines and baby pomfrets
Okay, these don’t grow on trees or anything, but they’re still “frutti de mare” – fruits of the sea! Those baby pomfrets are tiny – barely 4 inches long. 5 Ringgit got us 20 of these babies. We’ll probably pan fry them like we did the sanddabs back in San Jose.

Head for the Border

One of our friends told us about a place further down the road in a tiny town called Tebekang where we could get some good eats. Tebekang is on the road to Tebedu, which is just at the border between Malaysia and Indonesia. All along the way, we saw many people along the roadside, selling durians and other fruit. We just had to stop.

Roadside Durian Sellers Outside Serian

roadside durian sellers outside serian
Just off the roadside at this particular intersection, there was what looked like an orchard of small trees with these curious looking, purple colored pods attached to their trunks. Can anyone guess what these are?

Purple Pods Attached to Tree Trunks

dark cacao pods
If you guessed “cacao”, you’d be right! Yep cacao, as in cocoa, as in chocolate! Right here in Sarawak! Malaysia being a tropical country, it totally makes sense to grow cacao here. But I’d not heard of a cacao industry in Sarawak. Since those pods looked overripe, I surmise that cacao production is not a thriving industry here. Oh well.
I wonder if the owner would have minded if I made off with one of these pods.

Cacao Pods

cacao pods
There was a man there hanging up some bunches of rambutan as well as langsat.

Yellow Rambutan

yellow rambutan
On the ground nearby, under a covering of fern leaves, lay a pile of buah tarap. These fruit have a very interesting (and pungent) outer covering. But the flesh inside is quite nice. I’ll detail what it looks like and how you eat buah tarap in another post.

Buah Tarap

buah tarap
Of course, we were here for the durian. There were lots to choose from! December is the peak of the durian season so selection is high and prices are dirt cheap.

Selection of Roadside Durians for Sale

roadside durians
We’re not yet expert in selecting durian, so Annie asked one of the sellers for help. He played the part of “durian whisperer” – thumping the spiky fruit on the ground and carefully sniffing each one. (By the way, the durian here are nowhere near as pungent as other varieties in West Malaysia. Perhaps because they are more like to the original wild, jungle durians and less like the cross-bred varieties sold on the Peninsula.)
After the seller selected the durians, Annie asked him to open one up and check the fruit inside.
cutting into a durian
splitting a durian
After approval, we had the sellers put the fruit in our boot. (Car trunk for all you Americans out there.)
How much did we pay for the durian? Well when we took Nick to Satok Market back in November, we brought one durian home for 12 Ringgit. This day, we paid 13 Ringgit and came home with 6 durian! How awesome is that?

Heading Home

We made it to Tebakang but we couldn’t find the shop we were looking for. We turned around and headed home. But we’ll be back! The views of the countryside are beautiful enough to entice us out again.

Rice Field Outside Serian

rice field outside serian
Aloha, Nate

Hungry for more market finds? Click below:

Visit to Kuching’s Satok Market
Visit to a Kuching Pasar Malam (Night Market)
Peppers, Pimientos and Pervs in Palo Alto

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