House of Annie

Basically speaking, beggar's delights are different meats that have been wrapped and sealed in a clay vessel, then baked in an oven. Chinese legend has it that a beggar stole a chicken but before he could eat it, he hid it from some passing guards in some mud. Not having any cooking utensils, he tossed the whole thing in the fire he had built.

When he pulled the chicken out of the fire, he found that the mud had formed a hard clay crust. After breaking open the crust, he discovered that the feathers came off along with the clay, and what he was left with was a deliciously cooked chicken. Thus originated this classic Chinese cooking technique called Beggar's Chicken.

Get Out of Town

Ijok ("EE-joke") is a small town about 35 km northwest of PJ. It was quite refreshing to get out of the concrete jungle and crowded roads. As we drove out of the city, condominiums, malls and shoplots gave way to acres and acres of palm plantations, as far as the eye can see. Just before hitting Ijok town proper, we made a left turn at the sign at the intersection of Jalan Harmoni 2 and the main road.

Sign for Restoran New Beggar's Delicious, Ijok

Jalan Harmoni 2 is a lonely road, but after hanging a right, we came upon this restaurant compound:

Restoran New Beggar's Delicious, Ijok

Under the corrugated tin roof, the layout is like a typical Malaysian open air restaurant: many round tables surrounded by red plastic chairs, fluorescent shop lights, and ceiling fans turned up high to provide a breeze. Sparse and utilitarian, with not much attention to decor besides red Chinese lanterns and hanging weaver swallow nests. Your focus is on your food and friends at the table.

Restoran New Beggar's Delicious, Ijok

We had arrived at 12:30, a bit earlier than the normal 1 pm restaurant opening. The restaurant opens so late because the beggar's delights don't finish cooking until then.

Can we eat it all?

Our party was only 7 adults and 2 kids. A normal set meal is for 10 people. The waitress was concerned that we didn't have enough people to eat all the food that was coming. She suggested we just order less dishes ala carte, but that would have come out to roughly the same price. "Give us the set," we said, "and whatever we don't finish we'll ta pau (box up to take home)."

Being a nosy American, I asked if we could see the ovens where the food was cooking. At first, the waitress said there was nothing to see. But we prevailed upon her and so three young boys (presumably the owner's sons) led us past the kitchen and behind the restaurant.

The first things you see are stacks and stacks of rubber tree logs, which they use as fuel for their ovens.

Stacks of Rubber Tree Logs

In between these two great piles of wood are the brick ovens. They are loosely built structures. The logs are burned to coals in the spaces between the low walls. A thick metal plate rests atop the walls. The beggar's delights are laid on top of the metal plate, more bricks are stacked up like a dam, and old ashes and coal are poured over the beggar's delights to bury them. At Restoran New Beggar's Delicious, the delights cook in the hot ashes for six hours, starting from 7 in the morning all the way to 1 pm.

Brick Ovens at Restoran New Beggar's Delicious

One of the boys took a long-handled shovel and began pulling down the brick dams.

He then sunk his shovel into the pile of hot ash...

And lifted out one of the clay packages.

He repeated this two more times until we had three packages laying on the ground. Apparently, each packet is shaped slightly differently so they can tell what meat is in what packet. Can you see any differences?

The boy loaded the packages onto a wheelbarrow and brought them back around to the front of the restaurant...

Where he deftly lifted them onto a wooden table and began the indelicate work of breaking through the clay shell and tearing through the paper wrapping.

Inside each package is a foil pouch containing the braised delight. The delight goes onto a serving tray and then is brought to the table.

From the Beggar's Oven

The first packet we opened was a pork shoulder and chunks of chinese taro (yam), whole garlic cloves, and shiitake mushroom halves. The meat fell clean off the bones. This isn't like Southern-style pulled pork barbecue, though. Being sealed inside foil, paper and clay, no smoke flavoring is allowed to penetrate. But it is still good eats!

Beggar's Pork, Yam, Garlic and Mushrooms

The beggar's chicken was stuffed with Chinese herbs and swimming in a delicious broth. The chicken was lean and flavorful.

Beggar's Chicken

My favorite of the three was the beggar's duck. It was melt-in-your-mouth tender, with a rich taste. Besides the herbs, there were also some abalone mushrooms cooked with it that was silky smooth and complementary to the duck.

Beggar's Duck

They also dropped off a packet of Loh Mai Fan, glutinous rice that has been cooked with oyster sauce, salted duck egg yolks, shiitake mushrooms, and pork. Dr G warned, "don't fill up on the glutinous rice! You won't have room for all the other dishes."

Loh Mai Fan

From the Restaurant's Kitchen

We had just finished cleaning our plates of all the braised meats, when they started bringing out the other dishes that were part of the set meal. Here is a beautiful steamed fish, covered in fried garlic, shallot slices that had been marinated in lime juice, slivers of ginger and green onion. This was actually my favorite dish of the meal. The lime-marinated shallots had me craving for more. And the fish was very fresh--delicate and flaky with no hint of fishiness.

Steamed Fish with Sliced Shallots

Next came this dish of fried whole prawns, covered in a sweet, sticky sauce. I'm guessing that the sauce is Marmite-based, but I can't tell for sure. The weird thing about this dish is, I found bits of fried lard among the prawns. I love fried pork bits, but Dr G is allergic to pork, so she was concerned that she couldn't eat this dish.

Fried Marmite (?) Prawns

Next, they brought out a platter of mud crabs, fried with chillies, curry leaves, and lard bits again. What's up with the lard bits and seafood? I didn't quite care for this dish, as I much prefer eating Dungeness crab.

Fried Chilli Mud Crab

They also brought out a platter of stir-fried baby choy sum. One plate of veggies to go with all that preceding meat. I wish we had more veggies.

The final dish was this pork intestine soup. Normally, this soup is flavored with white pepper to mask the smell of the innards. But when I tasted the soup, I was struck by how overwhelming the white pepper taste was. I commented to Annie, "watch out. There's a lot of white pepper in this soup."

"This soup is supposed to have lots of white pepper in it."

"I know, but not this much."

She tasted it. "Whoa! You're right! I can't taste anything else."

The soup was undrinkable to me. Sorry to say, this dish was ruined by the heavy pepper taste.

White Pepper and Pork Intestine Soup

Our final dish was a plate of ice-cold jackfruit. These fruit were ripe, sweet, crunchy, and a fitting end to the feast.

Ice Cold Jackfruit

When it was all said and done, we had finished off everything except the undrinkable soup, half the loh mai fan and half the beggar's chicken.

If you do go to Restoran New Beggar's Delicious in Ijok, do go with a large group of people, and do call ahead to make a reservation. They only cook a certain number of beggar's delights each day, and once they're allocated, that's it.

Aloha, Nate

Restoran New Beggar's Delicious
Ijok, Selangor
Tel: 03-32791936

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Polenta, Grits, Whatever

The original recipe actually calls for for grits but since I didn’t have any white cornmeal, I decided that I’d just have to adapt it slightly. I just happen to have a lot of polenta cornmeal leftover (after baking the Corn Bread) and I don’t want it to go to waste. After all, polenta and grits are just cousins from the other side of the pond. (Please don’t hurt me for saying that polenta and grits are pretty much the same thing!)

And please don’t get me wrong, I love grits too, It’s just that cornmeal gets rancid pretty quickly so I want to try to use up my stash as quickly as possible (or else resort to freezing it— but my freezer is full enough without trying to shove more into it!).

Garlic Cheddar Polenta with Shrimp and Asparagus

This recipe is so yummy. It’s because of that Worcestershire sauce man; it’s killer with shrimp if you haven’t already discovered that from my other shrimp recipe with W sauce. And of course, it doesn’t hurt to put sharp cheddar in the polenta either!

I actually made extra polenta because I wanted to have leftovers that would harden up that I could then make into cakes. But I ended up eating all the leftover shrimp and asparagus with the polenta the next day (the polenta was hard but softened once I heated it up in the microwave). Next time, I guess I’ll have to make even more!

Garlic Cheddar Polenta with Shrimp and Asparagus

adapted from Fine Cooking

Ingredients

4 Tbs. unsalted butter
1 clove garlic, minced
2-1/3 cups low-salt chicken broth
1/2 cup polenta corn meal
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup grated extra-sharp Cheddar
1/2 lb. medium-thick asparagus, trimmed and sliced on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces
1 lb. large shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
1 to 2 scallions (green parts only), thinly sliced

Method

1. Heat 1/2 Tbs. of butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 30 to 60 seconds.
2. Add the broth and bring to a boil over high heat. While stirring constantly, pour in the grits and 1/4 tsp. salt. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the grits are thickened, 15 to 20 minutes.
3. Stir in the Cheddar cheese.
4. Season to taste. Cover the polenta and set aside.
5. Heat 1 Tbs. of butter in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the asparagus, sprinkle with a little salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until crisp-tender and a little browned, 3 to 4 minutes.
6. Add the shrimp and cook until the shrimp is opaque and the asparagus is tender, 2 to 3 minutes.
7. Reduce the heat to low and add the Worcestershire sauce. Melt the remaining 2-1/2 Tbs. butter into the shrimp and asparagus. Season to taste.
8. Serve the shrimp and asparagus over the polenta, sprinkled with the scallions.

Garlic Cheddar Polenta with Shrimp and Asparagus

A delicious weekday meal that you can whip up quite quickly. So make it soon, ‘kay?

Cheers, Annie

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First you start with day old rice
‘Cause fresh made rice is not so nice
Fresh made rice -- so wet, it sticks
It turns rice into rice bricks
Put that rice back in the fridge
To chill and dry, just a smidge

Lots of garlic cloves to chop
Enough to make a vampire drop!
And what’s fried rice without the eggs?
T’would be a footstool sans two legs

And then, of course, we have the Spam
Mystery meat cube in a can
What goes in a can of Spam?
Hormel says it’s just SPiced hAM
To know the truth would be quite neat
I just say, “Some Parts Are Meat.”
So, plop that block of Spam, kerplunk
And cut it into bite-sized chunks

Everything else is up to you:
Cut-up fish balls, peeled shrimp too
Couple cups of frozen veg
Any leftovers you can dredge
Up from the freezer. You might stumble
On something fun for this jumble

Shrimp, Fish Balls, Spam, Frozen Mixed Vegetables, Garlic, Eggs, Rice

Once we’ve got the fried rice charted
Now let’s get this party started!

First, heat oil in a pan
Beat three eggs and drop them in
Scramble up until they’re fried
Take them out and set aside

Frying Eggs For Spam Fried Rice

Garlic next. Fry it well
Pungent, fragrant is the smell
Spam’s the next one to go down
Fry it until it gets browned
Add the fish balls and the shrimp
Frozen veggies (not yet limp)

Frying Spam, Fish Balls, Shrimp and Veggies For Spam Fried Rice

Toss and fry, mix and churn
Move it ‘round, don’t let it burn
Until the shrimp becomes opaque
Don’t overcook, for goodness’ sake!

Fry Shrimp Until Opaque

And now, the rice. Just dump it down
Break it up and spread it ‘round
Drizzle soy and oyster sauce
Just how much? Hey, you’re the boss
Don’t forget: Spam is salty
Too much sauce would be faulty
So we say, season to taste
Make good food, not food waste

Toss that rice! Mix it in!
Clumps of rice would be a sin
You will get, if you mix it right,
A little something in each bite
Finally, add the eggs back on
Last ingredient, then you’re done
Stomach growling; time to sup
C’mon and plate this fried rice up!

Adding Fried Eggs Back to Spam Fried Rice

So there you have it: Spam Fried Rice
Tell us, Readers, but be nice
Would you eat fried rice with Spam?
Comment now!

Cheers,
Ann-I-Am

Spam Fried Rice

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(Happy Birthday, Dr. Seuss!)

Annie had gone out for some afternoon coffee and conversation with a couple of her girlfriends, just to get away from the kids and the house and to decompress a little. She suggested I cook something for dinner using quinoa and shrimp that we had in the freezer, so a-Googling I did go and quickly found this recipe on Allrecipes.com . Now, I’m not the best cook, so any recipe has to be easy enough for me to do. This recipe fit the bill.

Actually cooking and building this quinoa salad with shrimp and asparagus is quick. It’s the prep work of slicing and dicing the veggies beforehand that can take a while if (like me) you’re not as good with a knife. But I made it through and was actually surprised at how fast the dish came together.

Quinoa Salad with Shrimp and Asparagus Recipe

adapted from allrecipes.com

Ingredients

1-1/2 cups water (I used a can of chicken broth)
1 cup quinoa, rinsed
1 onion, diced
1 bell pepper, diced (I used six baby bell peppers)
8 stalks asparagus, sliced thinly on the bias
1 cup mushrooms, sliced
1/4 cup raisins (I used chopped sun-dried tomatoes instead)
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon ginger, minced (I used my Microplane grater)
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 lb shrimp, shelled and deveined*
2 tablespoons olive oil
juice of one lime (we didn’t have limes so I used a lemon instead)

*The original recipe calls for a pound of shrimp, but I feel that 1/2 pound is enough.

Method

1. Bring water or chicken broth to a boil, then add the rinsed quinoa. Cover the pot and lower the temperature. Simmer for 15 minutes, then turn off heat. Let the remaining liquid absorb into the quinoa.

Quinoa Simmered in Chicken Broth

2. Heat olive oil in a large skillet. Sauté the garlic, onion and bell pepper until they soften.

Sautéing Garlic, Onion and Bell Pepper

3. Add in the asparagus, mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes and ginger. Cook until the asparagus is tender.

Sautéing Asparagus and Mushrooms

4. Add in the shrimp to the vegetables and cook until the shrimp turn opaque, about 5 minutes.

5. Mix the lemon juice into the quinoa, then toss the quinoa into the vegetables and shrimp. Adjust seasonings.

6. Plate it up!

Quinoa Salad with Shrimp and Asparagus

The quinoa is not as fluffy or crumbly as couscous nor as soft or sticky as rice – it has its own unique texture. This entire quinoa salad is just bursting with flavor. All sorts of umami were present, from the mushrooms to the sun-dried tomatoes to the shrimp. The quinoa had absorbed the chicken-y savoriness of the broth while the onions and bell peppers contributed sweetness. The brightness of the lemon brought all the flavors together and intensified them.

I served this to Annie when she came home and she loved it. “Can you make it again?”

Sure thing!

Aloha, Nate

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A Mature Taste

You come to realize that that phrase is a code word for "it's not going to taste very good." I remember pinching my nose closed and chewing that bittermelon as fast as I could or drinking up the soup in one gulp to get it over with (all the while, my mom would be watching to make sure we weren't wasting any).

Well, my tastebuds must have matured because I find the taste of bittermelons quite pleasing now. And I will willingly eat it every so often! I still can't imagine making them into soups (bittermelon soup was the most nasty of all) but in a stir fry with other flavors, bittermelon actually tastes good--a nice salty, savory flavor with a lingering bitterness at the end.

Pick the Right One

My mom tells me that you have to know how to choose your bittermelons/bittergourds. If you choose the wrong ones, they will be very bitter. She tells me that you have to look for ones with fewer ridges, look more smooth and are a lighter green. Another trick I learned is after you've sliced it, you want to salt it to make it less bitter. Don't forget to wash the salt off before cooking!

Of course, we are talking about the Chinese bittermelons that you find in the Asian grocery stores. If you walk into any Indian grocery stores, their bittermelons are very different and I don't know how to choose those. They are smaller and have tons of ridges and I've heard that they are really, really bitter in flavor. I cannot say as I've never had them myself personally. If you have eaten these varieties, would you tell me about them?

Indian Bittermelon

This recipe is my "simply hantam" recipe ie. I just looked in my fridge and decided to throw whatever I had together. Normally, my mom cooks bittermelon with eggs and shrimp. But I had some black bean sauce and decided that it would work just as well. And it did! The saltiness of the black bean contrasted very nicely with the bitterness of the bittermelon and the sweetness of the shrimp.

Bittermelon and Shrimp in Black Bean Sauce

Ingredients

1 Tbsp vegetable oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
10-12 shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 bittermelons, halved lengthwise, seeds scraped off and sliced thin on a diagonal
pinch of salt
1 1/2 Tbsp black bean garlic sauce (we use Lee Kum Kee brand)
1 tsp sugar (or to taste)
dash of fish sauce
a little water (about 1/4 cup or less)

Method

1. Heat up saute pan or wok and add the oil. Once the oil is shimmering, throw in garlic and saute on medium heat quickly for 30 seconds or until lightly browned (it will start to smell yummy).
2. Throw in the shrimp and a pinch of salt and saute till just losing its translucent color on both sides.
3. Add bittermelon and saute for a minute on medium-high heat.

4. Add the black bean garlic sauce and the water and stir to mix. Add sugar and fish sauce to taste and cook till the bittermelon is tender, about another 2-4 minutes.

Serve over rice. Enjoy!

Cheers, Annie

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Stir-Fried Sequa

Fast forward several years later to when Annie and I had been living here in the Bay Area a few years. I've always had that cioppino on my mind. One evening, Annie made a huge pot of cioppino for us and a group of friends, using the Tadich Grill Cioppino recipe from Saveur Magazine. Everyone loved it.

Covering the Cost

In fact, our guests loved the cioppino so much, they said that they would gladly pay us to make it again. All that wonderful but expensive seafood made doing this dish at home cost-prohibitive. But if we had some help getting the ingredients, we could do it. What could be better than having someone else cover the cost of the meal?

Enter the Foodbuzz 24, 24, 24 program. Each month, Foodbuzz features 24 blogs doing 24 meals in a single 24 hour period. If you are selected as one of the 24 bloggers to present a meal that month, you receive a stipend that will help cover the cost of the meal. Cool beans!

Build a Better Cioppino

When Annie and I were developing our proposal for the meal, we were thinking of incorporating a Chinese New Year theme. Hot pot is a really popular dish among Chinese, especially around Chinese New Year. (In fact, Kian Kho of the excellent Red Cook food blog also did an amazing hot pot dinner for his Foodbuzz 24, 24, 24 meal. I guess great minds think alike!)

But I didn't want to do just a regular hot pot. I wanted to give it a San Francisco Bay twist to it. I thought, what's a seafood soup dish that's popular in the San Francisco Bay Area. *ding!* (lightbulb flashes on) Cioppino! Of course!

We could totally do this! It would be great, because we wouldn't have to worry about how much all the seafood was going to cost. In fact, it would be better and healthier to do a cioppino hot pot-style. Why?

Higher in Flavor, Lower in Fat

The original Tadich Grill cioppino recipe calls for all the fish, shrimp and scallops to be dredged in flour and fried in butter and oil. A cup of olive oil and 16 tablespoons of butter, to be exact. Sure, that cioppino would have tons of flavor. But that's an awful lot of fat. And remember, Annie hates frying fish.

Doing this cioppino hot pot-style, there would be no fish frying. Everything gets cooked in the broth, right at the table. The meal would be high in flavor yet lower in fat. Me likes!

Procuring and Preparing the Ingredients

We knew exactly where to go to get our seafood: our favorite fishmonger, Pat from Mission Fresh Fish. Pat has supplied us with fish for several of our recipes, including Pan-Fried Sanddabs, Wild Salmon Cakes, and Ikan Pepes. And he always gives us a good deal.

We gave him a call, told him what we were doing and what we wanted and placed our order. The day of the dinner, we went over to the Saratoga Farmer's Market to pick up our seafood. As soon as we got home, we started prepping.

First, we peeled the large shrimp, leaving the shells on just the last tail section. We took the peeled shrimp shells and boiled them in some water to make a shrimp stock, which we then strained.

Large Shrimp and Cooked Bay Shrimp for Cioppino

Next, we sliced up the halibut fillets into thin slices. We also cleaned the scallops, removing any of the harder muscle. The scallops gave off a lot of liquid, so we had to drain them on paper towels for a while.

Sliced Halibut and Large Scallops for Cioppino

Then, we cleaned the clams and mussels. We tried our best to pick out the dead ones (they don't close tight when you squeeze them). We pulled off the mussel "beards" as well.

Clams and Mussels for Cioppino

Finally, we removed the cooked Dungeness crab bodies from their shells and cleaned off the gills and guts. Then we cut each body section into quarters.

Dungeness Crab Sections for Cioppino

The ingredient list for the cioppino broth is:

1 medium yellow onion, peeled and chopped
1 thumb of ginger, peeled and finely minced
2 medium carrots, peeled, trimmed, and chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped
1 leek, white part only, trimmed, cleaned, and chopped
1⁄2 small fennel bulb, trimmed and chopped
2 28-oz. cans crushed Italian tomatoes
2 tbsp. tomato paste
4 bay leaves
1 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. dried thyme
1 tsp. dried basil
2 pinches cayenne
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

First, the veggies were sauteed in a large stock pot with 8 Tablespoons of butter and 1/2 cup olive oil.

Sauteeing Vegetables for Cioppino Broth

Then Annie added the crushed tomatoes and tomato paste, followed by 6 cups of shrimp broth. Next came the herbs and spices. For an added Asian twist, we put in a stalk of lemongrass that had been lightly crushed. We brought the cioppino broth to a boil, then lowered the heat and simmered, stirring occasionally and adjusting the seasonings to taste.

Adding Crushed Tomatoes to Cioppino Broth

(Oh, one more thing. Remember the crab shells from the Dungeness crab? There's a lot of lovely crab fat and tomalley left in the shell. We scraped all that into the cioppino broth as well. Mmmmm-MM!)

As the dinner hour got closer, Annie heated up a large skillet with a couple Tablespoons of oil and 2 cloves of garlic (minced). She then poured in 2 cups of Sauvignon Blanc and brought that to a boil. Working in batches, she tossed in the clams and mussels, covered the skillet, and let them steam for a few minutes. The clams and mussels that popped open were transferred to a bowl and set aside. (We discarded any that didn't open.)

Steamed Clams for Cioppino

Dinner Time - Let's Eat!

I had set up a portable butane stove in the middle of our dining table. After our Thai-inspired Caesar salad course was cleared, we started cooking the cioppino hot pot. We transferred some of the broth from the large stock pot into a shallower pot, and brought that to a boil over the butane stove. Then we lay down some of the shrimp, fish, scallops, clams, mussels, and finally Dungeness crab sections into the broth. Covered the pot and let it come to a boil again.

Cioppino Hot Pot Boiling

Within a few minutes, the cioppino broth came to a boil. We ladled out all the seafood into individual bowls (one of our guests, Michael from Cooking for Engineers, has a good picture of his bowl of cioppino.) Then, it was time to chow down.

Ladle Full of Cioppino

I could tell that there wasn't as much butter in this version of cioppino compared to the previous versions. But that didn't matter, because the stew was bursting with so many other flavors. From the sweet shrimp, scallops and crab to the firm halibut flesh to the briny clams and mussels, it was perfect.

After everyone finished their first portion, we refilled with more cioppino broth from the stock pot, and started a second batch of seafood boiling. After that second helping, we were feeling pretty full, but pretty good!

Aloha, Nate

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